Founded in 2008, Shein, the Chinese fast-fashion powerhouse, has rapidly grown to serve customers in over 150 countries. Renowned for its lightning-fast trend delivery, Shein offers an expansive range of affordable styles, from casual streetwear to elegant eveningwear, with an average price of just £8 per item. Its appeal has made it a favourite among Gen Z and millennials, with 44% of US Gen Z shoppers reportedly purchasing from Shein monthly. By 2023, its revenue had skyrocketed from $3.15 billion in 2019 to $32.5 billion.
Shein’s extraordinary growth stems from its massive production scale and highly agile supply chain. The company launches up to 10,000 new products daily and transforms designs into sale-ready garments in as little as 10 days. With a catalogue exceeding 600,000 items, Shein attracts price-conscious consumers worldwide.
However, its success has also drawn criticism over its environmental and ethical practices, as well as the broader implications of fast fashion.
The environmental impact of Shein’s operations has been a significant concern. In its 2023 sustainability report, the company disclosed carbon emissions of 16.7 million metric tonnes—comparable to the annual emissions of four coal-fired power plants—and nearly double its emissions from the previous year. The heavy reliance on polyester, which constitutes 76% of its fabrics, with only 6% derived from recycled materials, exacerbates its environmental footprint. Polyester, being fossil fuel-based, contributes to microplastic pollution and textile waste, compounding ecological challenges.
Shein has also faced scrutiny over its labour practices. Despite commitments to ethical improvements, reports highlight factory workers enduring gruelling 75-hour workweeks. Audits of over 3,000 suppliers revealed that 71% were rated C or lower on the company’s A-to-E compliance scale, indicating widespread violations of ethical standards.
The company’s anticipated IPO has amplified concerns about prioritising profit over sustainability. Critics, including Dr Pete Clark from University College London, caution that publicly traded firms often prioritise growth at the expense of ecological responsibility. Shein’s dependence on virgin polyester underscores the tension between rapid expansion and sustainable production.
In response, Shein has sought to emphasise its commitment to sustainability.
In April 2022, it launched EvoluSHEIN, an initiative focused on inclusivity and environmentally responsible practices. The collection features garments made from recycled polyester and other sustainable materials, reducing reliance on virgin polyester. By June 2023, the programme expanded with evoluSHEIN by Design, accelerating the adoption of preferred materials like recycled polyester, forest-safe viscose, and rescued deadstock fabrics. Items under this initiative must use at least 30% preferred materials and meet strict social and environmental standards.
The company has also partnered with organisations such as Vital Voices to support women’s empowerment projects while investing in advanced polyester recycling technologies. Shein recently announced an innovative recycling process capable of handling pre- and post-consumer polyester, textile waste, and PET bottles, improving cost efficiency and feedstock flexibility.
Shein aims to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050, with an interim goal of reducing emissions by 25% by 2030 under the Science Based Targets initiative. Furthermore, its adoption of Cool Transfer denim printing through a partnership with NTX in Singapore has saved nearly 19,500 metric tonnes of water since 2022.
Sceptics argue that these measures may prove inadequate without a fundamental transformation of the company’s core business model.
Ultimately, while Shein’s sustainability initiatives and technological investments signal a step towards addressing its environmental and ethical shortcomings, they may fall short of mitigating the broader impact of its fast-fashion model. The company’s ability to balance its rapid growth with genuine, transformative change remains uncertain, leaving questions about whether its efforts are sufficient to align with the growing demand for sustainability and accountability in the fashion industry.
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