Gucci has announced the departure of Sabato De Sarno, who is stepping down as creative director just two years after his appointment. De Sarno succeeded Alessandro Michele in 2022, taking on the challenge of revitalising the brand amid slowing sales.
A graduate of Milan’s Istituto Secoli, De Sarno built his career behind the scenes, having served as fashion director at Valentino, overseeing both menswear and womenswear. Before that, he held roles at Dolce & Gabbana and Prada. At Gucci, he led the design studio and was responsible for shaping the house’s creative vision across all categories, reporting to then-CEO Marco Bizzarri.
Tasked with reigniting consumer enthusiasm, De Sarno aimed to restore Gucci’s appeal, stating ahead of his debut Milan Fashion Week show in September 2023: “I want people to fall in love with Gucci again.”
However, despite these ambitions, Gucci struggled amid a wider luxury market slowdown. Its revenues, which account for around half of parent company Kering’s total earnings, fell sharply—declining 18% in Q1 2024, 19% in Q2, and a significant 25% in Q3, weighing heavily on Kering’s performance.
De Sarno’s exit marks the first major decision by Gucci’s CEO Stefano Cantino, who took the helm last year. “I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honoured Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment,” said Stefano Cantino in a statement.
Francesca Bellettini, Kering Deputy CEO in charge of Brand Development, declared: “I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work that has been done to further strengthen Gucci’s fundamentals. Stefano and the new Artistic Direction will continue to build on this and to guide Gucci towards renewed fashion leadership and sustainable growth.”
“Gucci holds rather unfavourable cards—high exposure to China, a middle-class customer base, and a brand that has been in decline for the past three to four years,” said Barclays analyst Carole Madjo. “The top priority should be to make the brand more popular and fashionable again.”
“The high number of design changes indicates that the industry is in a state of upheaval. Over the past two to three years, excessive focus has been placed on price increases, while too few new products and innovations have been introduced by many brands,” said Stefan Bauknecht, portfolio manager and luxury sector specialist at Deutsche Bank’s DWS.
As the brand navigates a transition period, all eyes will be on Gucci’s next creative leader. Their ability to redefine the house’s aesthetic while reigniting consumer interest will be pivotal in reclaiming Gucci’s status as a global fashion powerhouse.
Gucci’s design studio will be presenting its Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, debuting at Milan Fashion Week on 25 February.
