Lebanese fashion designer Elie Saab captivated audiences on Saturday with the unveiling of his latest spring collection at the Palais de Tokyo. Redefining safari chic through a lens of luxury and innovation, Saab moved away from tired clichés and transported viewers on a sultry, vibrant journey inspired by the African savannah, firmly rejecting colonial nostalgia.
The collection, immediately distinct and fresh, showcased Saab’s mastery in transforming traditional safari staples into high fashion. He took classic safari suits and reimagined them as roomy linen separates and sleek crepe jumpsuits, replacing the conventional khaki tones with striking colors inspired by nature, such as fiery reds reminiscent of fireball lilies, moody elephant grays, and the ochre dust characteristic of West Africa. This bold palette highlighted the raw beauty of the continent while presenting a modern approach tailored for today’s cosmopolitan adventurer.
A standout element of the collection was Saab’s innovative use of raffia. The plant fiber featured prominently in low-slung skirts and minidresses with delicate bubble hems, exuding both lightness and opulence. Additionally, raffia appeared in fern embroideries on sweeping tulle gowns, enriching the collection with a textured, organic quality that transcended mere thematic exploration, elevating it to exquisite artistry.
The fashion spotlight also shone on Hermès, as creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski revealed a spring collection characterized by warm golden beiges and earthy hues that drew immediate attention. Her designs embraced gentle geometry, featuring architectural shapes that resonated with Hermès’ signature minimalism. Relaxed elegance embodied the collection, with sheer mesh trousers transitioning effortlessly into convertible pieces and lightweight leather jackets carrying an ethereal quality.
Vanhee-Cybulski’s ability to blend practical utility with refined sensuality emerged through utilitarian details like buckled belts and pocket-laden shirts, harmonizing bold silhouettes with the season’s demand for lightness. The collection’s luxe reinterpretations of Hermès’ iconic silk scarves as breezy shirtdresses and rompers conveyed a carefree, sunlit spirit that heralded the arrival of spring.
Vivienne Westwood’s legacy continued to resonate through the Paris runway as Andreas Kronthaler presented a spring collection infused with rebellion and glam rock energy. The show opened with sparkling pants paired with a silky blue bodice, a tribute to the bold contrasts loved by the late Westwood. A striking giant silver chain draped dramatically from models’ knees set the tone, embodying the raw power and punk ethos that Westwood championed.
Kronthaler’s collection featured signature Westwood suits and Grecian draped dresses infused with an undeniable energy and timeless rebellion. Clashing checks, a Westwood hallmark, punctuated the designs, giving them an urban edge that remained true to the brand’s spirit. Whimsical touches, such as a colossal tulle headpiece, added a playful yet sophisticated chaos reminiscent of 1980s bridal punk aesthetics.
This season, Kronthaler’s collection appeared more controlled and refined, suggesting a shift toward emotional homage to Westwood’s legacy rather than sheer spectacle, bringing a sense of narrative cohesiveness to his work.
Overall, these designers showcased a captivating blend of creativity and craftsmanship at Paris Fashion Week, leaving audiences with no doubt that the future of fashion is vibrant, bold, and infused with heritage. [1]
