The UK’s used textiles sector is on the brink of collapse, prompting warnings from environmental NGO WRAP about escalating costs and environmental consequences. Currently, textile collectors and sorters spend £88 million annually managing worn-out clothing. Should the sector fail, local authorities could face an additional £64 million per year in disposal fees, on top of the £73 million they already incur for textiles discarded in general waste.
The potential collapse threatens not only financial burdens but also environmental impacts. An estimated 2.5 million tonnes of CO₂e emissions could result annually from increased landfill and incineration of textiles.
The crisis stems from a decline in the value of reusable textiles, driven by the proliferation of low-quality fast fashion items. Collectors and sorters, once offsetting costs through resale, now operate at a loss. Charities are overwhelmed with unsellable stock, and many sorting facilities have closed, reducing the number of operators from around 60–70 a decade ago to just a dozen today.
Without intervention, WRAP projects that by 2035, the annual cost to councils for managing textile waste could soar to £200 million.
Catherine David, incoming CEO at WRAP, stated, “The charity sector plays a vital role in enabling a circular economy for fashion in the UK—a role it has been playing for over a hundred years. The sector now faces a crisis, with storage rooms up and down the country bursting with unsellable stock that collectors refuse to take.”
The situation underscores the urgent need for collaborative action among policymakers, retailers, and consumers to foster a sustainable and circular approach to textile consumption and disposal.
